In December, central Madrid turns into one big game of spot-it: lights on every street, nativity scenes tucked into courtyards and shop fronts that move and sing. For children aged 6 to 9 it's the best time of year to explore the city on foot, as long as the plan doesn't become a race through the crowds.
Here are the Christmas things to do in Madrid that work best with kids, how to enjoy them without the stress, and a walking route that links most of them.
Dates and times change every year, so check them on Madrid's official tourism site (esmadrid.com) or each organiser's website before you go.
The Christmas lights
The lights usually go on in late November and stay up until after Three Kings' Day on 6 January. The best-known streets are Preciados, Carmen, Mayor, Alcalá, Gran Vía and Puerta del Sol, which also gets a giant tree.
With children, go just after dark in the early evening: it's light enough to walk comfortably, not too late for them, and a little quieter than after dinner.
A game for the way: everyone picks a colour before you set off. Whoever spots the most lights in their colour on one street wins.
The Naviluz bus
Naviluz is an open-top double-decker bus that tours the most brightly lit streets in the centre. For kids who tire of walking, it's a great way to see a lot of lights at once. It leaves from the Paseo del Prado area, and seats sell out fast, so book ahead. Bring hats and gloves: it's cold on top.
Cortylandia
Cortylandia has been a Madrid Christmas tradition for decades: the front of the El Corte Inglés store on Calle Preciados fills with moving, singing figures in short shows at set times. It's free and brief, and children this age still love it. Arrive a few minutes early and stand to one side, where it's less crowded.
Nativity scenes
Spain takes its nativity scenes (belenes) seriously, and they're full of tiny details to search for. Some of the most visited are in the centre:
- The nativity scene at the Real Casa de Correos, on Puerta del Sol.
- The Plaza Mayor nativity scene, next to the Christmas market.
- Nativity scenes in churches, convents and cultural centres around the centre, which change every year.
A perfect nativity game: look together for the ox and the donkey, a washerwoman, a sleeping shepherd, or an animal that shouldn't be there.
The Plaza Mayor Christmas market
From late November to the end of the year, Plaza Mayor fills with stalls selling nativity figures, decorations and joke-shop items. Kids usually head for the wigs and silly hats; grown-ups for the tiny figurines. Go in the morning or on a weekday.
The Three Kings parade
In Spain, the Three Kings bring the presents, and on the evening of 5 January their parade (Cabalgata de Reyes) winds through central Madrid. It's the grand finale of Christmas for children. With kids, choose a stretch away from the start and end, arrive early, bring something to sit on and agree a meeting point.
A Christmas walk through central Madrid
The full version, with a challenge at every stop and a printable sheet, is in our Christmas lights walk with kids.
This route links several of these in a walk of about two hours with stops. It's flat and almost entirely pedestrian.
- Cortylandia (Calle Preciados). Start here if you can catch a show.
- Puerta del Sol. The big tree, the New Year's Eve clock and the Real Casa de Correos nativity scene.
- Calle del Arenal. Find the Ratoncito Pérez plaque at number 8. Read his story in Ratoncito Pérez in Madrid.
- Plaza Mayor. The Christmas market and nativity scene. A good stop for a snack.
- Calle Mayor. Walk back towards Sol under the lights once it's dark.
Tips for Christmas in Madrid with kids
- Pick one or two things a day, not five. A short walk with time to look is remembered longer than a checklist.
- Do the busiest things on weekdays or in the morning, like the market and Cortylandia.
- Use public transport: the centre has traffic restrictions and parking is hard. Sol, Ópera and Callao are the handiest metro stops.
- Agree a fixed meeting point and put the grown-up's phone number on a note in each child's pocket.
- Dress in layers: it gets cold quickly after dark.
A Christmas present for going out to explore
If you're looking for a present for children aged 6 to 9 that the whole family can enjoy, the Paseo y Pista Madrid pack brings together four illustrated booklets, each with a mystery you solve by walking through real places: Retiro Park, Sol and Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace and the Literary Quarter. It comes in a kraft envelope, ready to go under the tree.
It's on pre-order, delivered before Christmas anywhere in Madrid. See the Madrid pack.