Seeing the Christmas lights is one of Madrid's favourite family plans. With children aged 6 to 9, the trick is to turn the walk into a game: a short route with a challenge at every stop, so they look closely instead of just walking through the crowds.
Here's a free route through the centre, from Plaza de Callao to Plaza Mayor. At the end there's a printable route sheet to carry in your pocket.
The route at a glance
- Start: Plaza de Callao (Callao metro).
- Finish: Plaza Mayor, five minutes from Sol metro.
- Distance: about 1.5 km, flat and mostly pedestrian.
- Time: 60 to 90 minutes with stops.
- Best time: just after dark and, if you can, on a weekday.
The lights usually go on in late November and stay up until after Three Kings' Day on 6 January. Dates and times change every year, so check esmadrid.com before you go.
Before you set off: the colour game
Everyone on the team picks a colour: red, gold, blue, white… Throughout the walk, each person counts the lights in their colour. When you reach Plaza Mayor, see who found the most.
Agree an easy meeting point too, such as the clock on Puerta del Sol, in case anyone gets separated in the crowds.
The six stops
1. Plaza de Callao
Start by looking along Gran Vía, which is usually brightly lit at Christmas. Challenge: everyone counts the lights in their colour from here. Who's winning?
2. Calle de Preciados
A pedestrian street leading down to Sol. At Christmas, the front of a department store fills with moving, singing figures at set times: this is Cortylandia, a Madrid tradition for decades. Challenge: find a star. How many points does it have?
3. Puerta del Sol
The clock on the Real Casa de Correos is the one that rings in the New Year for all of Spain. At Christmas there's usually a big tree and a nativity scene. Challenge: find the big Christmas tree. What colours are its lights?
4. Calle del Arenal
A few steps from Sol, at number 8, there's a plaque for Ratoncito Pérez, Spain's tooth mouse. Challenge: find the plaque and read it together. His story is in Ratoncito Pérez in Madrid.
5. Calle Mayor
Head back to Sol and take Calle Mayor, a historic street that leads to Plaza Mayor. Challenge: invent a name for your favourite decoration.
6. Plaza Mayor
The end of the route, with the Christmas market and the nativity scene. A good place for a snack. Challenge: count the balconies on one side of the square. Back home, draw the square all lit up.
At the end
Who found the most lights in their colour? Everyone shares their favourite moment of the walk. It's an easy way to round off the evening and help children remember what they saw.
Tips for doing it with kids
- Hold hands in the busiest spots, especially Preciados, Sol and Plaza Mayor.
- Cross only at pedestrian crossings, with the grown-up.
- A note in each child's pocket with the grown-up's phone number.
- Dress in layers: it gets cold quickly after dark.
- If little legs get tired, you can cut the route short at Sol.
Printable route sheet
We've put the route on an A5 sheet with the six stops and their challenges, to carry in your hand or pocket: open the printable sheet.
More adventures in Madrid
If you enjoy walking with clues, our Madrid pack brings together four illustrated adventures through Retiro, Sol and Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace and the Literary Quarter, made for children aged 6 to 9 with a grown-up. It's a Christmas present for going out to explore together: see the Madrid pack.
For more seasonal plans, see our guide to Christmas in Madrid with kids.